Material innovators are pushing the boundaries of making
From human hair to leftover food scraps – you'll never look at everyday stuff in the same way after reading our round-up of innovative materials from the pages of Crafts
Those at the forefront of material innovation are always on Crafts’ radar – whether they’re discovering sustainable alternatives, transforming waste, or seeing untapped potential in everyday matter. From human hair or lab grown mycelium, everything is of interest to extraordinary pioneers producing new and improved materials to craft with.
Read on for a selection of the materials that have inspired us the most. Crafts members can click through to see the articles in full online on our website or in our digital archive on Exact Editions. Become a member now to access all of them, and get the biannual print edition delivered to your door.
Hair sculpture by Joanne Petit-Frère from Redressing the Crown series, 2020
Human hair
Ruth Terry’s investigation into the poignant and personal ‘hair craft’ works of Joanne Petit-Frère, Sonya Clark, Alex Bizet and others was awarded a coveted journalism prize after it appeared in Crafts May/June 2021. Including examples in embroidery, fashion and weaving, the piece looked at the art of using hair to explore societal issues such as racism, sexism and classism.
Glass from the Thames
In our Autumn/Winter 2022 issue, glass alchemist Lulu Harrison told us how she’s magicked up a method of creating glass using shells and sand sourced from the River Thames. The graduate of Central Saint Martins’ Material Futures course uses the shells of quagga mussels as her source, a problematic invasive species that costs millions to clear from London’s water pipes every year.
Strange clay
‘After more than a century of experimentation from artist-potters, it’s clear that the material still offers so much to uncover,’ wrote Isabella Smith in her look at those pushing the potential of clay and glaze in the name of contemporary art, from the pages of Crafts Autumn/Winter 2022. Among those featured is Takuro Kuwata, who embeds clay with stones to cause semi-controlled explosions in the kiln.
Magic mushrooms
‘What if we could grow, shape, colour and, in due course, compost our clothing, homeware and furniture?’ is the starting question for this investigation into the craftspeople, designers and artists pushing mycelium in strange new directions. From our Spring/Summer 2023 issue, the feature includes a designer updating the artisanal use of amadou, a type of fungi historically used to make hats.
Food waste
This round-up in our July/August 2021 issue looks closer at those turning to waste meat, fruit and vegetables, milk and eggs, and fish and seafood for inspiration. These include Malai, an initiative that makes a leather alternative out of coconut water; Basse Stittgen, the designer transforming blood into vessels; and Jade Ruijzenaars' glazes made of shrimp.
Drying British Pasture Leather as seen in Crafts Autumn/Winter 2022 issue. Photo: Sara Grady
New forms of leather
As environmental and ethical concerns hit makers hard, in our Autumn/Winter 2022 writer Yasmin Jones-Henry met a range of rule-breakers innovating with leather: from biodegradable versions to alternatives that include fish skin and pineapple fibres. Also on her list are Alice Robinson and Sara Grady, the food and fashion pioneers who are bringing traceability to the leather supply chain by collaborating with regenerative farms in Britain.
Growing materials
Bacteria, algae, yeast and proteins are on the workbenches of these eight bio-design inspired makers whose craft involves growing materials and objects. Artist Diana Scherer creates intricate 3D textiles by manipulating the root growth of plants, while designer Piero D’Angelo’s slippery garments are made from the neuron-like networks of slime mould. Read the whole article in our September/October 2019 or a round up of artists featured in the piece on our website.
